Day two in Petra, and I was initially going to retrace my route through the main entrance, past the Treasury, and penetrate deeper into the ancient city. I was intercepted though by this chap, who had a better idea.
For a very reasonable sum, he explained, he would drive me around to the other side of the mountain range, to a rear entrance of the park, from where I could make my way in via the Monastery, along a much less used and more interesting route.
I bargained hard from my customary position of ignorance, and for what turned out to be an exceptionally unreasonable sum, was taken on an interesting ride. Through the old Bedouin township, and along some very wild looking dirt roads. He let me out and sent me on my lonely way.
After a while a came across this lady, selling traditional fabrics and touristy knickknacks in her roadside tent, so I knew I was on the right track.
At one spot near the Monastery, there were two signs beckoning me towards the mountain's edge. One (pointing to a hill with a hawker's shack on top) said 'The best view on earth'. The other, on the cliff edge a bit further on, said 'The best view'. I decided the latter was probably the better bet, as the former limited itself to one planet only.
It was indeed spectacular. The air wasn't particularly clear, but I could across the valley to Israel, 30km away.
The Monastery is another spectacular rock-cut tomb with a magnicent facade, like the Treasury, but even bigger. The area is much less crowded too, thanks to the significant climb involved in getting up to it.
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