Minangkabau houses: the Disney and the derelict

The Minang, or Minangkabau, people of West Sumatra are very proud of their traditional architecture. Lots of pointy spires, modelled on buffalo (kerbau) horns. Last time I was there they told me it was all incredibly important to them.

Tour guide Erik took me to the Sultan's royal palace, or rather, the latest rebuild of it - they keep on burning down.

It's open to the public, and it's quite a tourist attraction. Almost like being in Disneyland. There are comic book characters to meet and greet you, and many of the visitors get to play dress-ups, as royal family members or traditional brides and grooms. It's all fabulous fun during the big post-Ramadan holiday period.

Meanwhile, in nearby villages, you come across traditional houses that are in a slightly lesser condition. I was told that the families live in modern houses they've built next door, but they keep the old places for ceremonial purposes. Do they really hold weddings and funerals and things in these crumbling old buildings?  "Yes", said Erik.