Kovalam was a bit of a shock at first, so excessive was the chaotic over-development of the place that there was no vehicle access to our hotel, or to any of the others along the main waterfront drag. And in the afternoon the staff would unblock the blocked main sewage drain of our supposedly 3-star hotel with a bowl and a spoon. There was the usual filth and litter everywhere too. And a big army of very persistent hawkers and legless beggars forever on the prowl.
But the place had its charms too. Lots of inexpensive restaurants, with excellent seafood and the usual range of tourist and Indian dishes, a fleet of local fishing boats that you could watch going out every evening, bootleg beer freely available, and big ayurvedic European ladies doing salutes to the sun on the beach.
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