Makassar

I spent a happy couple of days in South Sulawesi's capital, Makassar, on my recent Indonesian trip. It's come a long way since my last visit, 30 years ago, when I mostly remember muddy streets and becaks (cycle-rickshaws) as the main mode of transport.



For a visitor like me it's largely about the waterfront sights and food stalls. There are also a big theme park and an underground shopping centre.

There's also a 'floating mosque', and another, even more spectacular disneyesque mosque seems to be under construction.








One of the things it's difficult not to do is to get picked up by one of the tourist becak drivers, and taken for a ride, farewise, as well as to the schooner harbour and the fish market. The sights and photo opportunities make it well worth while though.








The Makassans are of course famed for their seafaring prowess, and were trading with the people of northern Australia hundreds of years ago.








Last time I was there, Makassar was officially Ujung Pandang. That never quite worked, and it was changed back to Makassar in 1999 by then President B.J. Habibie, who was born nearby. The two names are now used interchangeably, and Lonely Planet assures me there are no political connotations in which one you use.

Schooners 2

In Jakarta a few days earlier, I'd been unable to get into the old schooner harbour, but no such problems in West Sumatra, in Padang's old port. I was waved in by a friendly watchman, and was free to wander and photograph the colourful scene around me.

The old schooners came and went. Trucks and boats were being loaded and unloaded.

The cargo on this one was bamboo poles.

Schooners

Here's the old Makassar schooner harbour at Sunda Kelapa, northern Jakarta. They still use these terrific old boats for a lot of the inter-island trade throughout the country.

I got my view from the old Watchtower, which used to be for keeping an eye on all the harbour traffic. I wasn't able to stroll around the harbour for a close-up view this trip. The gates were closed and there were signs prohibiting pedestrians.











When I was here in 1984 it was a different story. I was able to stroll around the place, and on and off several of the vessels via scary narrow gangplanks. Below is one of my pictures from that trip.